Friday, January 30, 2015

New Whiskey Labels: Jefferson's Wood Experiments, Aberfeldy and More

This week's most interesting new labels from the federal TTB database:

Bottler Kentucky Artisan Distillery cleared 13 new labels for Jefferson's Ridiculously Small Batch Wood Experiments.  Each label indicates the product is Indiana bourbon aged in a variety of different types of barrels (different chars, barrel inserts, "cube tubes" -whatever that is, etc). Each label is listed as 200 ml and labeled "not intended to be sold separately" so presumably, these are part of a set.

The Last Drop cleared a label for a new 48 year old blended Scotch distilled in 1965 and bottled in 2014. Unlike previous iterations, this blend saw its secondary aging in bourbon casks. The label states there are 592 bottles.

Bacardi cleared a label for a new Aberfeldy 16 year old.

Note:  The fact that a label appears on the TTB database does not necessarily mean it will be produced.  In addition, some details on the label, such as proof, can change in the final product.

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Blog of the Month: Diving for Pearls

While it's been dormant for a few months, the Blog of the Month is a feature in which I pick one of the over 550 whiskey blogs that I think deserves more attention.

Michael Kravitz of Long Beach, California started Diving for Pearls as a sort of general blog back in 2007 but has been writing mostly about whiskey since 2011. While he tastes a variety of whiskeys, Kravitz' blog is mostly Scotch focused. He does lots of reviews and has some great in depth stories. Recently, he posted a very detailed, three part economic analysis of the Scotch whisky boom.  But it's not all tables and graphs. Kravitz also does fun stuff like a comparison of the notoriously terrible black whiskeys: Loch Dhu and Cu Dhub.

Diving for Pearls is always a good read.  Check it out!

Monday, January 26, 2015

Crown Royal Hand Selected Barrel

This is the newest expression from Crown Royal, a single barrel whisky bottled at 103 proof.  Most Canadian Whiskies are blends, and while there have been some single barrel bottlings by independents, this is one of the first by one of the major Canadian distilleries.  Canadian Whisky guru Davin DeKergommeaux covers all the details over at Whisky Advocate, though American readers should be aware that he uses the term "rye" in the Canadian sense, to mean any Canadian Whiskey.  This Crown Royal is actually majority corn with rye as the secondary grain. 

Crown Royal Hand Selected Barrel, 51.5% abv ($55)

The nose has a sort of soapy bourbon note. The palate has some nice rye spice along with those soapy bourbon notes; the different notes alternate through the tasting.  The finish is spicy on the palate but soapy on the nose.  With some air, the soapy notes fade a bit into just a vague sweetness.

While I'm glad to see a single barrel, high proof Canadian Whisky, this one doesn't excite me much.  There's just not that much to it.  Of course, I'm not a huge fan of Crown Royal, so I suppose it makes sense that I wouldn't be impressed with one of its component whiskies.  That being said, these are single barrels, so the barrels will vary.  This one came from a store owned by the Goody Goody chain in Texas.

Crown Royal Hand Selected is mostly available in Texas now but should see wider release soon.

Friday, January 23, 2015

New Whiskey Labels: The Return of IW Harper

This week's most interesting new labels from the federal TTB database:

Diageo cleared new labels for IW Harper Bourbon and IW Harper 15 year old.  IW Harper is an old brand that used to be in wide release, but about 15 years ago, Diageo stopped selling it domestically. Like Diageo's Orphan Barrels, the label indicates that these are Kentucky bourbons bottled at the George Dickel distillery in Tennessee.

Note:  The fact that a label appears on the TTB database does not necessarily mean it will be produced.  In addition, some details on the label, such as proof, can change in the final product.

Thursday, January 22, 2015

Charbay's Amador Hop Flavored Whiskey

Charbay is probably my favorite craft distillery with their bold, hoppy whiskeys, so I'm always excited to try a new whiskey from them. Their newest hop flavored whiskey was bottled for Trinchero Family Estates (makers of Sutter Home Wine) under the label Amador Whiskey Co. (not to be confused with Amador Distillery, which was responsible for bottling the Corti Brothers Exquisite Whiskey I enjoyed last year).

According to the hang-tag, the Amador Whiskey is a blend of 60% straight malt whiskey and 40% hop flavored whiskey distilled from an IPA (the front label confusingly states "straight hop-flavored whiskey" which is a bit of an oxymoron). The two components were aged separately for over two years in French oak and then married in Chardonnay barrels for another year.  They made ten barrels total.

Amador Hop-Flavored Whiskey, Batch 1, Barrel 2, Bottled June, 2014,
48% abv ($100)

The nose is bold and hoppy with fresh mint leaves.  The palate comes on sweet and syrupy with wildflower honey and some vanilla notes making it almost Scotch-like at the end of the palate. Then it explodes with hops before trailing off into an intensely long finish with more hops and spice.  It finally settles into the traditional, hoppy Charbay finish.

I'm a big fan of these hopped whiskeys, and I really enjoyed this one.  It's similar to Charbay's R5 (which may well have been one of the components) though it's a bit more refined.  It might have some more age on it, or it could be the influence of the straight malt. In any case, if you're a fan of hop flavored whiskey, this is definitely one to check out.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

It's Getting Better All the Time

It's easy to by cynical about the world of whiskey, especially for folks who have been following it for a while. In order not to get swallowed up in negativity, as I sometimes do, I thought I would take a moment to recognize some things that are getting better in the world of whiskey.

  • Availability of Foreign Whiskey.  Ten years ago, there were numerous brands that never made it to the US. We didn't get Green Spot, Ardbeg special releases or many other distillery bottlings.  For years, there were only two Japanese whiskeys available in the US:  Yamazaki 12 and 18. That situation has improved remarkably. We now have a decent selection of Japanese whiskeys from a number of distilleries, and we get a much larger share of regular bottlings from Scotland and Ireland than we used to.  There are certainly still things we aren't getting (Canada still keeps most of their good stuff), but it's a big improvement.
  • Craft whiskey.  It's been a shaky road and mostly uphill, but craft whiskey is gradually improving.  Sure, much of it is still swill, and very few are great, but more and more craft whiskeys are entering the pretty good to good range. It helps that some of the novelty has worn off.  Fewer news outlets are touting craft whiskey, and fewer consumers seem willing to buy something just because it's craft and instead, are demanding quality product.  This is probably the sector with the greatest potential for the next ten years.
  • Label Transparency.  Maybe it was the publicity, maybe it was the lawsuits, but label transparency seems to be improving.  More new labels include the state of distillation, and a number of brands have changed their labels in recent months to be more clear about who makes their whiskey. Add to that the TTB's clarification on age statements last week and we should be seeing more honest labeling in the near future.
  • News Coverage.  It's hard to believe that ten years ago, there were really just a handful of sources for whiskey news, reviews and information. With over 550 blogs and numerous podcasts, forums and Facebook pages, along with increasingly serious coverage in the mainstream media, there are more diverse voices talking about whiskey than there ever have been before. This has both positive and negative aspects.  The diversity of voices means that new information crops up in numerous places, not just a handful of sources, but while more voices should lead to more opinions, sometimes it can create a herd mentality instead of diversity of opinion. On balance, though, I think it's a good thing to have so many more people engaged as content creators/contributors as well as content consumers.
What else is getting better in the world of whiskey?

Saturday, January 17, 2015

How Old Are You Now? - TTB Clarifies Age Statement Rule

Along with violations of the state of distillation rule, one of my whiskey label pet peeves is the use of maximum age statements, that is, age statements that say "less than __ years old." The TTB regulations state that whiskey that is less than four years old must include an age statement that reads "___ years old." (27 CFR § 5.40(a)). Recently, though, "less than __ years old" age statements have been slipping through, particularly on sourced and craft whiskeys.  I find this annoying because it renders the age statement meaningless.  Sure, it's less than two or four years old, but how much less?  One year?  Six months?  A week?

Yesterday, the TTB issued a new FAQ on age statements (see section S11) which makes it clear that maximum age statements are not acceptable:

Can the age statement include minimum or maximum ages?
As noted above, age may be understated, but may not be overstated. A minimum age (such as "aged at least __ years") is acceptable, but a maximum age (such as "aged for less than ___ years") is not acceptable.

It's great to see the TTB clarify this issue. Hopefully, this marks the end of two month old whiskey labeled "Less than four years old."  Score one for the TTB and the whiskey consumer!